Best Way to remove Surface Rust?

"Schaefft" (Schaefft) 04/14/2016 at 15:27 • Filed to: luxury, barge, Schaefft, Rust, Lincoln, Mark VIII, DIY

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Maybe the collective mind of Oppo can help me with figuring out what the best way of doing this might be.

Like you can see in the photo I have some surface rust on my Lincoln’s doors and trunklid where some of the protective sealant got brittle and fell off. I’d like to get rid of it completely and make sure that it doesn’t come back. What would be the best way of tackling this? I know there are rust converters and paints that you just cover the rust with, I’m not sure if I could trust this stuff though as it might not be able to penetrate the rust deep enough and the same spots would come back again.

I thought about getting !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! as it is a proper rust remover, the gel should help keeping it on the doors as well. I would cover the area with some primer once the rust is gone, that should do I guess?

Any other suggestions?

1111111111111111111111 > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:31

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Soda blaster?

'Wägen, EPA LOL > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:31

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Primer is porous and doesn’t do a good job of protecting from rust, iirc. You should totally use it to improve adhesion, but I just saw no mention of painting afterwards and that is the only thing that will help to keep the rust from coming back. Really nothing to do but sand and do it right. Some people swear by Por15.

Schaefft > 'Wägen, EPA LOL 04/14/2016 at 15:42

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Por15, sounds like an excellent idea!

crowmolly > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:46

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Mechanical rust removal first. Wire brush, wire wheel, etc.

Then go with a primer and a topcoat.

Mr. Plastics powered by GreyGoose > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:47

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To remove it, really you’re stuck with sanding, or sandblasting, but then you’re looking at repainting.

I’m not sure how well the chemical treatments would work, or if they fully encapsulate the rust and prevent it from spreading.

BigBlock440 > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:49

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That looks like a bit more than surface rust, it probably goes deeper than it looks and won’t be easy to get rid of. Sanding, blasting, grinding, or cutting, whatever you do you’re going to want to make sure you got it all, but you’ll likely be missing most of that structure when you’re done.

Land_Yacht_225 > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 15:53

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I always used naval jelly on my Continental when the rear wheel arches bubbled and the paint flaked off. That and a good steel brush, a small one, so you can be precise. Then rust converting Rustoleum, black gloss, and a clear coat.

Junkrat aka Rick Sanchez: Fury Road Edition > 'Wägen, EPA LOL 04/14/2016 at 15:53

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I would sand and POR-15 the area. As stated above primer alone will absorb moisture and hold it next the metal, the poor untreated metal.

Schaefft > BigBlock440 04/14/2016 at 15:55

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Definitely gonna sand the hell out of it first. I’m hoping it isn’t too deep yet, its definitely not coming from the inside. Cutting might be hard to do there, normally I’d replace the whole part since most of the time thats the cheapest way of getting rid of it completely. Not an option with this car though.

Schaefft > crowmolly 04/14/2016 at 15:55

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Should have mentioned this.

BigBlock440 > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 16:07

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Good luck. From the picture, and maybe it’s just my screen, it looks like it’s a little deep, especially with the bubbling under the paint.

Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 16:17

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Looks like the rust really started when the manufacturer’s seamsealer started to shrink, and moisture could get trapped in there and pinned against the panel, or pinned between the outer skin’s flange and the inner shell. Definitely going to want to wire wheel/grind as much clean as you can, prior to primer/paint.

One thing you’ll certainly want to do is re-seamseal prior to paint. The easiest option is a 3M/Transtar product that comes in a roll.

The messier/more annoying solution is a two part mix from 3M/SEM/Fusor that is applied with something similar to a caulking gun. Lay 1/2" tape outside of the seam, apply seamsealer, wipe bead smooth with (gloved) finger or acid brush, and pull tape while seamsealer is still tacky for an OEM type appearance.

The key is locking in the flange where outer skin and inner structure join, to prevent dirt/moisture trapping.

crowmolly > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 16:21

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It may not be.

Unless you get the metal very clean and you have a rough enough finish it will come off in flakes. Clean, smooth metal will not be so great for POR15.

Schaefft > Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever 04/14/2016 at 16:40

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Interesting, never heard of seam sealer tape before. Do you have a link to the right tape for this kind of work?

Schaefft > crowmolly 04/14/2016 at 16:42

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I’ll definitely keep that in mind, thanks for mentioning it.

Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 16:50

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I’d honestly suggest the two part (better about flowing into the step between inner structure and outer skin), but it’s messier, more time consuming, requires specialized tools (applicator gun), and not really something you’d expect someone to do in a couple hours at home.

Here’s a link to 3M’s listing for the 8475 tape.

http://3mcollision.com/3m-seam-sealer…

Schaefft > Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever 04/14/2016 at 16:58

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I’ll definitely do my best to make it work with the tape. The alternative might be a bit too complicated for me. Thanks for your help!

Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 17:09

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If you have trouble finding the tape, call your local paint and body garage, and ask where they purchase supplies, or if they’d be willing to sell you a roll retail.

Schaefft > Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever 04/14/2016 at 17:25

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I can get one on amazon for 30gbp, sounds pretty expensive to me, no idea what the British equivalent to that product might be.

Rust and Dust - Oppositelock Forever > Schaefft 04/14/2016 at 17:38

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3M charges blood money for their stuff, but honestly, nearly all body & paint products are obscenely priced. I checked a couple UK paint jobbers online that carry 3M, none listed it, but they still may be able to order for you for less than 30 quid. May want to call a couple before ordering on Amazon, they also might do better on abrasives and primer/paint you’ll need, too.